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Pearls are unique gemstones, and for good reason. While most gems are extracted from minerals found in the land, pearl harvesting is only possible with the help of water and, of course, a mollusk. While the process is lengthy, taking up to several years, it is definitely worth it for the beautiful end result. However, this also drives up the cost.

 

These gems are also some of the easiest ones for jewelry makers to work with. Royals and the elite were the only ones who had access to these gemstones in ancient times. However, ever since freshwater pearls came into the picture, they have become more accessible for others to buy as well.

 

Earlier, pearls were only found in marine waters. This is why these gems were extremely rare and expensive, and only the rich could afford to wear them. But pearl harvesting in freshwater changed the game for the pearl industry.

 

Pearl farmers and jewelers noticed there was a massive demand for this gemstone. Even though saltwater pearls are still more expensive and rare, freshwater pearls are their more affordable cousins. The process of pearl formation and harvesting remains the same; it is just the water that is different. Hence, freshwater pearls are just as beautiful!

 

Cultivating pearls requires the correct ecological conditions, which are now sort of a challenge because of shifting climate conditions, over-farming and habitat disruption. Large corporations that practice commercial farming end up harming the ecology of the location and causing pollution because of their harmful practices that do not consider conserving and protecting marine life.

 

Hence, there have been many questions raised about harvesting pearls. Cultivating sustainable pearls is the only solution that can resolve these issues and preserve the income of the farmers who depend on this pearl farming to feed their families. By opting to consciously be more mindful and sustainable in their practices, the environment and everyone interconnected in the supply and cultivation chains will benefit.

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Cultivating pearls requires the correct ecological conditions, which are now sort of a challenge because of shifting climate conditions, over-farming and habitat disruption. Large corporations that practice commercial farming end up harming the ecology of the location and causing pollution because of their harmful practices that do not consider conserving and protecting marine life.

 

Hence, there have been many questions raised about harvesting pearls. Cultivating sustainable pearls is the only solution that can resolve these issues and preserve the income of the farmers who depend on this pearl farming to feed their families. By opting to consciously be more mindful and sustainable in their practices, the environment and everyone interconnected in the supply and cultivation chains will benefit.

Types of Pearls: Saltwater Vs. Freshwater Pearls

 

Pearls come under two categories – saltwater and freshwater, and this is what has the biggest impact on the gemstone's value. In marine waters or the oceans, saltwater pearls can be found in oysters. These types of pearls are extremely rare and expensive. 

 

Naturally-occurring pearls formed in saltwater are even rarer than cultivated saltwater ones. Akoya pearls are harvested in saltwater, mainly in Japan. These are the most perfectly-round pearls that have no flaws. These are also the most expensive pearls at the moment. And then you have the freshwater pearls that are formed in water bodies such as rivers, ponds, lakes, etc. 

 

In terms of colors, hues, sizes, and shapes, both types of pearls are available in numerous variations. A pearl's price varies most significantly between freshwater and saltwater. The latter is way more expensive than the former. Additionally, there is a significant difference in the number of pearls that can be produced in the two types of water. Saltwater mussels can grow just one pearl at a time, while the mussels used for cultivating freshwater pearls can grow up to 50 of these stones at a time. Both procedures require tremendous patience, as it takes years for these pearls to form. 

Pearl Making

 

First, let us understand the art and science behind the formation of pearls. It is a complex but fascinating process, so let us dive right in. 

 

When a tiny foreign irritant enters the shell of a mollusk and settles down there, the latter considers it a threat. To protect itself, it starts to form a layer of calcium carbonate, also known as nacre, around it.

 

As time passes, layers similar to these form around the foreign particle. This is how an individual pearl is formed naturally. Keshi pearls are also another by-product of this process. These tiny pearls form within the shells of the mollusks. They are irregularly shaped as well.  

 

In culturing and pearl harvesting, the irritant is surgically transplanted into the mollusk, and then the latter is put back in the water. The mollusk resorts to the same procedure for dealing with the irritant and forms the pearls. The only difference is the type of water the mollusk is put into – freshwater or saltwater pearls. This requires the right tools, ecological conditions, and skilled personnel who are thorough with the pearl-making procedure. It also requires a lot of time. 

 

One of the drawbacks is that out of all the mollusks that are put to work for pearl formation, only a few of them will create perfect gemstones that are of excellent quality to be used in jewelry making. Due to this, there is also a demand for baroque pearls, which are irregularly shaped gemstones. 

 

In sustainable pearl farming, the mussels' habitat is carefully monitored and arranged in such a way that it matches all the favorable conditions required for the production of pearls. This practice ensures there is no threat to the ecology of the area, and the freshwater pearl business also flourishes. 

 

Pearl farmers keep the mussels in baskets that give them protection from natural predators. These baskets are put in the water in rows and also at certain angles where the water is the correct temperature for them to grow. Once the mussels grow to the required size, they are put through the next step of harvesting. Some of the pearls produced are also baroque pearls.

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What is Sustainable Pearl Harvesting?

 

Sustainable farming applies to the entire process of cultivation as well as pearl harvesting. Mussels are the only organisms that can produce pearls in controlled conditions in water that are not contaminated. Because of the increase in pollution in the oceans, it is not easy to find a location where saltwater pearls can be grown properly. Most of the areas where pearl harvesting was conducted earlier are now not suitable for cultivation.

 

To be a sustainable pearl farming company, it has to be in line with all the sustainability practices that ensure they take proper environmental responsibility. These include conserving the area's biodiversity, maintaining the natural habitat of the mollusks as form pearls and baroque pearls, maintaining transparency in their operations, and complying with the local laws.

 

Companies should keep moral ethics at the core of their functioning and strictly operate with responsibility, or face the consequences of not doing so by having to pay fines.

 

Ever since the sustainable outlook has been placed on pearl farming, the depleted ecosystems have begun recovering slowly; companies have also seen growth, which in turn has also improved the livelihood of the workers. This practice is crucial for cultivating gemstones, including baroque pearls, while maintaining the ecology of the water bodies.

Benefits of Sustainable Pearl Harvesting

 

Cultivating and pearl harvesting take up a lot of time, and ideal conditions are necessary. It is also a massive industry that employs many people at various levels. For some localities, farming freshwater pearls or saltwater ones is extremely crucial for the economy.

 

The short-term and long-term advantages of engaging in sustainable pearl farming have the potential to bring about significant positive impacts for our oceans, local communities, and individuals who rely on oceanic and coastal resources.

 

Let us take a closer look at this process for each type of pearl.

 

Saltwater pearls are timeless jewelry pieces. They are always in fashion, hence always in demand. Previously, to keep up with the demand, the companies indulged in the over-farming of pearls, which eventually led to climate destruction and shortages. Pearls were first cultivated in the 1920s. However, sustainable pearl harvesting has only been in practice for the last few years.

 

Conserving marine and freshwater bodies is vital. Saltwater pearls are largely grown in the Pacific Ocean, which has suffered in the past few decades because of global warming, climate change, pollution, overfarming, and overdevelopment.

 

The ecosystem of the entire planet is interconnected. Hence, if an area is at risk, it has to be looked into. While saltwater and freshwater pearls provide many jobs, companies have also started looking at other tools for making money out of the process instead of just discarding the pearls. The irregularly-shaped baroque pearls are also now marketed and sold instead of being discarded. They may not be flawless, but their uniqueness is what adds to their values. The same is true with Keshi pearls as well.

 

Sustainable farming also ensures that the mollusks are cared for in favorable conditions. This makes the saltwater pearls healthier and also contributes to making the marine environment healthy. As pearl farming is deeply tied to the economic conditions of certain localities, using sustainable practices will also boost the area's economy.

 

Pearls will always be in demand because they are timeless, making them a business that will never run out of consumers. In order to ensure sustainable farming practices, freshwater and saltwater pearls need to be farmed according to sustainable practices.

 

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Processing The Pearls

 

After the mollusks grow to a certain size, the baskets they are put in are lifted back to the surface to harvest them. The shells of every mussel are then opened with the utmost care, and the pearls they have formed are then extracted. Another team then carefully sorts the pearls out based on their sizes.

 

Some also run them through a filter with the appropriate hole sizes. The pearls go through another inspection round to check their color, luster, and if they have any faults or blemishes that could possibly decrease their worth.  

 

All the pearls are segregated based on size, color, shape, and quality. The sorting process is important because each pearl has a different value. 

 

The most important attribute of freshwater pearls is their luster. The shinier it is, the more valuable it is. Even if it is not shaped perfectly, it still holds value. These are known as baroque pearls and are marketed differently. They may not be perfectly round, but the same process still forms them, and they are unique gemstones. 

 

All the chosen pearls are then taken to experts who carefully drill tiny holes into them, which is useful in putting together jewelry. This process requires expert hands because if any damage is caused, it will render the gemstone useless.

 

Saltwater and freshwater pearls can be purchased in jewelry sets or even individually. 

Using Pearls In Jewelry

 

Pearls are timeless, elegant jewels that will instantly make any outfit look luxurious and royal. They are also a favorite among jewelry designers because they are very easy to work with and do not require other refining or processing to make them saleable. Their shine is the most important factor that determines their price, apart from the type of waterbody they were grown in.

 

When it comes to sales, they are categorized into either their perfect, round, flawless pearl category or their irregularly-shaped baroque pearl category. The latter's unique style is what makes them popular among the masses and also among jewelry designers. Their various colors and shapes are what make them easier to work with and add to designs.

 

Their uniqueness adds value to the jewelry pieces. Their uniqueness is what makes people want to own them.

 

The Keshi variety, too, has the same appeal. However, these pearls are tiny compared to the general pearls and baroque ones. 

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Bottom Line

 

The pearl industry is a billion-dollar one. The demand for pearl gemstones is constant. The pearl industry also supports various employees and the economies of their localities. Hence, it is essential that sustainable practices are in place when it comes to pearl farming and cultivating these gemstones. With the rising temperatures of the planet, every single industry is responsible for ensuring they do not generate more harmful conditions for the planet and disturb its ecology. The pearl industry, too, is taking the necessary steps to ensure that the benefit of the people, employees, localities, and planet is kept in mind while the business continues to grow.

June 22, 2023 — Arun Yadav