Unlike the long-established, universally accepted grading system for diamonds and other quality gemstones, pearls are still subject to competing systems of establishing quality in the marketplace (even though the GIA has established a standard for pearl grading). Acquiring some basic knowledge about the characteristics of fine cultured pearls and the tell-tale signs of inexpensive cultured pearls will lessen the chance you will order poor value pearls.
The best bead suppliers will always provide you with information on the source and market quality of the pearls in their inventory .Their best quality pearl line should be free of pits or surface irregularities and have a mirror-like luster. The thickness of the nacre will hold a very high luster that is consistent, and there will be no noticeable surface defects. The next grade of pearls will still present a high-luster first impression, but small surface irregularities will be apparent on close inspection. Conversely, suppliers’ lowest jewelry-grade pearl will have a chalky luster, with a higher number of surface irregularities.
Treatments – Dying and Bleaching
Keep in mind that many pearls are dyed, and a low-quality dying process can result in the dye having a noticeable lack of stability. Look to see if the dye is visible in the small cracks or lines of pearls with surface irregularities, and if the dye stains the string the pearls are strung on. Also, be aware that most white pearls are bleached to create a uniform surface color and enhance any overtone colors.
Exceptions to the rule
There are also some unique categories of pearls you may want to become more familiar with, such as the lines of very small pearls. These size exceptions (3mm and under) require special harvesting steps and are harder to drill and string. Their price structure has a higher starting price point.
Also, remember you can make your pearl budget go farther by anticipating the mounting and design for individual pearl pieces. Pearls that are mounted into jewelry can be turned so that their most significant defects are out of view, affording you a finished jewelry design with excellent presentation at lower cost (though these savings can be affected by the drill costs in mounting).
Mary Anne Montray, G.G. (GIA)
Beads of Cambay Team
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